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Crossing the Border and Police Escort to Jebel Hafeet [Omanya Day 3]

A few weeks ago, I decided that I needed to take a vacation. I just needed to get offline for a while and take a short break from the blog. I don’t take such breaks often but a little time away every now and then sure seems like a wise idea in order to keep me fresh and motivated as much as possible.

So, I began brainstorming potential vacation destinations, thinking long and hard about where I should go…

Perhaps a simple hut on a white sand beach or a quiet mountain retreat? Maybe some picturesque European town or Melbourne, Australia, where many of my friends live?

Off we went…

On April 20th, at 2.30am, our flight from Istanbul landed at Sana’a International Airport. I obtained my tourist visa sticker from the visa counter, passed through the immigration inspection and collected my backpack. I then took a deep breath before stepping outside into the dark unknown, with the simple words that the immigration officer had said to me while stamping my passport playing over and over again in my mind. All he had said, with a big smile on his face, was…

You have curly hair. Welcome to Yemen. Thank you for coming here.

Travel To Yemen?

I know, it’s probably not the destination that most people would think of when they decide to take some time off from work. Not only that, but if you take a moment to look at the websites of almost every Western government, I’m quite certain that the various warnings you’d read would convince you never to step foot in this country…ever.

US Government:

UK Government:

Why would I travel to Yemen? Why would I spend 9 days in a country that appears to be so dangerous?

The answer is easy. This is my drug, it is my ‘high’. Traveling to these kind of destinations, destinations that few people know anything about and that fewer people seem to visit, regardless of whether or not they seem safe, brings me the most satisfaction. It also provides me with the most interesting and eye-opening of experiences by placing me far out of my comfort zone, something that is difficult to reach these days after 13 years on the road.

As most of you know, I want to see the world with my own eyes in order to gain a better understanding about the cultures and people that call this planet home. And with the blog, I am then able to share my experiences in an attempt to break down the collection of inaccuracies, assumptions and misunderstandings that we all have about parts of the world we are really not so familiar with. This is why I travel.

And as simple as that may sound, that’s exactly why I went to Yemen.

Do I now claim to be an expert on Yemen just because I just spent 9 days there? Absolutely not. But what I do claim is to have seen a decent amount of the country, to have spoken with a good amount of local people and to have gained a much better understanding about this part of the world. And I also have a much better idea as to whether or not this country is a good destination for travelers, something that I will discuss in more detail in the coming weeks.

What Is There To See In Yemen?

I must admit that before I traveled to Yemen, I knew almost nothing about what I would find there…turns out I could have stayed for 9 months and probably still not seen it all. In the end, I had to skip many places that I wanted to see and believe me, the list of worthy destinations to visit is remarkably long for a country that sees not even a trickle of tourists passing through these days.

From the mesmerizing old city of Sana’a, to towns and villages such as Shibam, Kawkaban, Manakh, Mahweet, Al-Hajarah, Tawila and more, many of which are perched in the most improbable of locations and appear to have changed little in hundreds of years. There were the colorful canyons, the lush green valleys stretching as far as one can see and the Burra and Haraz mountain ranges, all of which offer landscapes that literally seem out-of-this-world.

And I haven’t even mentioned Socotra Island, a truly isolated and alien-esque Yemeni island located in the Indian Ocean, where we spent 3 days, an island that can only be described as a place you MUST see with your own eyes in order to believe it. (Just wait until I write more about this place…for now, here’s two photos to give you a small taste!)

The above destinations, combined with dozens of cups of tea per day, afternoon qat sessions with the locals (chewing a mildly intoxicating leaf for hours on end), military checkpoints, armed escorts, food ranging from superb to bizarre, the most beautiful beaches on Earth, laid-back people, wedding celebrations, two strange flights, barely existent roads, hiking and camping, kaleshnikov guns, talking with students and teachers in remote schools, conspiracy theories, maze-like markets, traditional music and dancing and so much more, turned this trip into one of my favorite trips I have ever been on in all of my travels.

Sure, some things abut Yemen confused me, some things made no sense to me, some things certainly were frustrating or did not align with what I believe is right in this world. But as a travel destination, especially one that manages to truly open the eyes of visitors to a land, culture and people that few of us are at all familiar with, Yemen could not have been better.

Why Did I Keep Yemen A Secret?

To be honest, I was a bit scared. Since I was not fully aware of what the actual safety situation would be for a foreigner, and after reading the government warnings I listed above and hearing such mixed reports about current security issues, I thought it best to keep my whereabouts unknown in order to be as safe as possible.

Was it safe in the end? Well, I’ll dedicate an entire post to that topic soon. Right now, all I’ll say is that I am extremely happy I traveled to Yemen and I never really felt as if I was in any real danger at any time during my trip. In fact, I wish I could have stayed for a much longer period of time.

This is probably why, as I sit here on the rooftop terrace of my guesthouse in Istanbul right now, where I flew to from Sana’a yesterday morning, I often find myself lost in thought, quietly repeating the word “Yemen” dozens of times in a row. Yemen. Yemen. Yemen. I honestly cannot believe that I was just there, that all of the experiences and interactions of the past 9 days actually occurred.

It will take some time for me to process everything that happened but I do know that I have so much I want to share about this trip and I can’t wait to tell you about it all!


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Anwar al-Awlaki
أنور العولقي
Anwar al-Awlaki in Yemen in 2008.
Born Anwar bin Nasser bin Abdulla al-Aulaqi
(1971-04-21)April 21, 1971[1][2] (UPI gives April 22, 1971)
Las Cruces, New Mexico, U.S.
Died September 30, 2011(2011-09-30) (aged 40)
Al Jawf Governorate, Yemen[3]
Cause of death Hellfire missile drone strike
Citizenship United States and Yemen (dual)
Alma mater
  • Colorado State University (B.S.)
  • George Washington University (Ph.D., incomplete)
  • Occupation
  • Lecturer
  • former imam
  • Known for Lectures across Asia and the Middle East
    Inspire magazine
    Alleged senior al-Qaeda recruiter
    and spokesman[4][5]
    Religion Muslim[6]
    Children 5[7]
    Parent(s) Nasser al-Awlaki (father)

    Anwar al-Awlakial-Aulaqi, al-Awlaqiأنور العولقي

    Early life[edit]

    Later life and alleged al-Qaeda ties[edit]

    In the United States; 1990–2002[edit]

    In the United Kingdom; 2002–04[edit]

    In Yemen; 2004–11[edit]

    Reaching out to the United Kingdom[edit]

    Other connections[edit]

    Fort Hood shooter[edit]

    Christmas Day "Underwear Bomber"[edit]

    Sharif Mobley[edit]

    Sharif Mobley had acknowledged contact with Anwar al-Awlaki. The Mobley family claims the contact was for spiritual guidance in further studies of Islam.

    Times Square bomber[edit]

    Stabbing of British former minister Stephen Timms[edit]

    Seattle Weekly cartoonist death threat[edit]

    Cargo planes bomb plot[edit]

    Final years[edit]

    Lawsuit against the US[edit]


    External video
    White House Press Briefing, September 30, 2011, "Jay Carney briefed reporters and answered questions on a number of issues, including the killing of the leader of al-Qaida in the Arabian peninsula (AQAP) Anwar al-Awlaki by a U.S. drone attack in a remote town of Yemen."[226]


    FOIA documents[edit]

    When queried by Fox News, the FBI denied having evidence connecting al-Awlaki and the September 11 attacks: "The FBI cautions against drawing conclusions from redacted FOIA documents. The FBI and investigating bodies have not found evidence connecting Anwar al-Awlaki and the attack on September 11, 2001. The document referenced does not link Anwar al-Awlaki with any purchase of airline tickets for the hijackers."


    Abdulrahman al-Awlaki[edit]

    Nasser al-Awlaki[edit]

    Tariq al-Dahab[edit]

    Islamic education[edit]



    Written works[edit]

    • 44 Ways to Support Jihad: Essay (January 2009).[266] In it, al-Awlaki states that "The hatred of kuffar is a central element of our military creed" and that all Muslims are obligated to participate in jihad, either by committing the acts themselves or supporting others who do so. He says all Muslims must remain physically fit so as to be prepared for conflict.[71][121] According to US officials, it is considered a key text for al-Qaeda members.[267]
    • Al-Awlaki wrote for Jihad Recollections, an English language online publication published by Al-Fursan Media.[268]
    • Allah is Preparing Us for Victory – short book (2009).[269]


    • Lectures on the book Constants on the Path of Jihad by Yusef al-Ayeri—concerns leaderless jihad.[71]
    • In 2009, the UK government found 1,910 of his videos had been posted to YouTube. One of them had been viewed 164,420 times.[270]
    • The Battle of Hearts and Minds
    • The Dust Will Never Settle Down
    • Dreams & Interpretations
    • The Hereafter—16 CDs—Al Basheer Productions[10]
    • Life of Muhammad: Makkan Period—16 CDs—Al Basheer Productions
    • Life of Muhammad: Medinan Period—Lecture in 2 Parts—18 CDs—Al Basheer Productions
    • Lives of the Prophets (AS)—16 CDs—Al Basheer Productions
    • Abu Bakr as-Siddiq (RA): His Life & Times—15 CDs—Al Basheer Productions
    • Umar ibn al-Khattāb (RA): His Life & Times—18 CDs—Al Basheer Productions
    • 25 Promises from Allah to the Believer—2 CDs—Noor Productions
    • Companions of the Ditch & Lessons from the Life of Musa (AS)—2 CDs—Noor Productions
    • Remembrance of Allah & the Greatest Ayah—2 CDs—Noor Productions
    • Stories from Hadith—4 CDs—Center for Islamic Information and Education ("CIIE")
    • Hellfire & The Day of Judgment—CD—CIIE
    • Quest for Truth: The Story of Salman Al-Farsi (RA)—CD—CIIE
    • Trials & Lessons for Muslim Minorities—CD—CIIE
    • Young Ayesha (RA) & Mothers of the Believers (RA)—CD—CIIE
    • Understanding the Quran—CD—CIIE
    • Lessons from the Companions (RA) Living as a Minority'—CD—CIIE
    • Virtues of the Sahabah—video lecture series promoted by the al-Wasatiyyah Foundation


    See also[edit]

    • Church Committee
    • CIA transnational anti-terrorism activities
    • Executive Order 12333
    • Extrajudicial killing
    • Protocol I


    Further reading[edit]

    • Inspire magazine
    • Inspire magazine
    • al-Ashanti, AbdulHaq and Sloan, Abu Ameenah AbdurRahman. (2011) A Critique of the Methodology of Anwar al-Awlaki and his Errors in the Fiqh of Jihad. London: Jamiah Media, 2011 ISBN 978-0-9567281-4-2
    • Murphy, Dan (November 10, 2009). "Fort Hood shooting: Was Nidal Malik Hasan inspired by militant cleric?". Christian Science Monitor. Boston. Archived from the original on November 13, 2009. Retrieved November 13, 2009. 

    External links[edit]

    Wikimedia Commons has media related to Anwar al-Awlaki.
    Wikinews has related news: US freezes assets of suspected terrorist
    • Ruling of Judge Bates in Al Aulaqi v Obama
    • Anwar al Awlaki Lectures
    • Archive of at the Wayback Machine (archive index)
    • Anwar al-Awlaki at the Internet Movie Database
    • Anwar al-Awlaki video conferences recordings and statements
    • Works by or about Anwar al-Awlaki in libraries (WorldCat catalog)
    • Handwerk, Brian; Zain Habboo (September 28, 2001). "Attack on America: An Islamic Scholar's Perspective—Part 1". National Geographic News. Archived from the original on March 30, 2010. Retrieved May 10, 2010. 
    • Handwerk, Brian; Zain Habboo (September 28, 2001). "Attack on America: An Islamic Scholar's Perspective—Part 2". National Geographic News. Retrieved May 10, 2010. 
    • "Exclusive; Ray Suarez: My Post-9/11 Interview With Anwar al-Awlaki", PBS, October 30, 2001
    • "Al-Jazeera Satellite Network Interview with Yemeni-American Cleric Shaykh Anwar al-Awlaki Regarding his Alleged Role in Radicalizing Maj. Malik Nidal Hasan", The NEFA Foundation, December 24, 2009
    • Anwar al-Awlaki collected news and commentary at Al Jazeera English
    • "Anwar al-Awlaki collected news and commentary". The Guardian. 
    • "Anwar al-Awlaki collected news and commentary". The New York Times. 
    • The imam's very curious story: A skirt-chasing mullah is just one more mystery for the 9/11 panel, Ragavan, Chitra, US News and World Report, June 13, 2004


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